Acids in Skincare Explained: Your Guide to AHAs, BHAs, and Hyaluronic Acid

Ever feel like you need a PhD in chemistry just to navigate the beauty aisle? 📡 AHAs, BHAs, countless other acids in skincare... It's enough to trigger flashbacks to high school science class. 😖

At Pour Moi Skincare, we geek out over every ingredient, formula, and innovation that has the potential to transform your complexion. 

So put on your lab coat and get ready to glow — your crash course in skincare acids starts now. 👩🏻‍🔬

Main Acids In Skincare: The Heavy-Hitters and What They Do

Acids in skincare can stimulate collagen production, fade dark spots, minimize pores, and even fight acne. The beauty of acids is their versatility, offering targeted solutions for all kinds of complexion concerns.

These potent ingredients typically work by dissolving the bonds of dead skin cells faster than they would on their own. The payoff? A smoother, brighter, younger-looking complexion. ✨

The three main types of acids in skincare are AHAs, BHAs, and hyaluronic acid. Let’s get better acquainted with them, shall we?

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are a group of naturally occurring acids derived from fruits, sugarcane, and milk. They help speed up your skin's natural exfoliation process, allowing dead skin cells to slough off more easily [1]. 

This helps to:

• Improve skin texture

• Brighten your complexion

• Boost collagen production

• Fade hyperpigmentation

AHAs are ideal for:

• Dry, flaky skin

• Uneven skin tone

• Fine lines and wrinkles

• Acne-prone skin

One of the most popular AHAs is glycolic acid.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is the smallest AHA and can easily penetrate your skin's surface. Like all AHAs, it dissolves the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, encouraging them to shed and reveal a fresh, radiant layer beneath.

It’s tolerated by most skin types, and also boosts collagen production (AKA your skin's natural fountain of youth) [2]. This helps plump fine lines and wrinkles, giving you smoother, more youthful skin.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, are best known for combatting blemishes. Unlike AHAs, which are water-soluble, BHAs are oil-soluble. Meaning? They penetrate deeper into your pores, dissolving oil and debris that lead to breakouts [3].

This helps to:

• Shed skin cells (similar to AHAs)

• Dissolve sebum and unclogging pores

• Reduce inflammation

BHAs are ideal for:

• Acne-prone skin

• Oily skin

• Enlarged pores

• Sensitive skin

One of the most popular BHAs is salicylic acid.

Salicylic Acid

Zits got you canceling plans? Meet your skin's new bestie: salicylic acid. 🤝

This powerful BHA, derived from willow bark, is a skincare superhero known to unclog pores, fight inflammation, and clarify your skin [4].

BHAs penetrate deep into pores and dissolve excess sebum and debris, preventing clogs that eventually cause acne. They’re also anti-inflammatory and ideal for calming redness and irritation. 

Want a gentle yet effective way to exfoliate and purify your skin? Salicylic acid is the answer. That’s why it’s a star ingredient in our Hydrating Balancers, keeping your skin clear, balanced, and ready to glow. ✨

Then there’s hyaluronic acid, which is neither AHA or BHA.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA)

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is like a tall drink of water for your skin. This super humectant naturally occurs in your body, but like collagen, its levels dwindle as we age [5].

This acid is all about hydration. It's actually a sugar molecule that attracts and holds water like a sponge, holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water [6]. 

This helps to:

• Draw moisture from the air and deeper skin layers

• Plump up the skin surface

• Create a dewy, hydrated look

HA’s ideal for anyone struggling with:

• Dry, dehydrated skin

• Fine lines and wrinkles

Oh, and did we mention it’s safe for all skin types? 

We love hyaluronic acid so much, we've infused it into most of our Climate-Smart® skincare, so you get a mega-dose of hydration, no matter your climate.

Combining Acids In Skincare: What You Should Know

While acids can be powerful additions to your skincare routine, it's important to understand how different types interact.

Let’s start with how to use salicylic acid and glycolic acid together.

Glycolic vs. Salicylic Acid

Glycolic acid excels at resurfacing skin and fading hyperpigmentation, while salicylic acid is better for purifying pores and fighting blemishes.

Combining them can help you cope with both acne and texture issues, and pave the way for smoother, clearer, more radiant skin.

Start with a low concentration of each, use them on alternate days or in separate routines (AM vs. PM), and always moisturize and wear sunscreen. ☀️

Hyaluronic Acid vs. Glycolic Acid

By removing dead skin cells, glycolic acid preps skin for hyaluronic acid’s deep dose of intense hydration. Hyaluronic acid also counteracts glycolic acid's potential drying effects. 

To use them together, incorporate a glycolic acid product into your routine a few times a week. Then, follow up with hyaluronic acid to replenish moisture and soothe your skin.

From there, tweak the frequency as needed.

Next, can you use salicylic acid with hyaluronic acid?

Salicylic Acid vs. Hyaluronic Acid

Just as hyaluronic acid rebalances moisture after glycolic acid, it soothes and hydrates skin that might feel parched after salicylic acid treatment. 

While salicylic acid clears pores and prevents breakouts, hyaluronic acid’s ultra-hydrating properties help promote elasticity and suppleness. 

The result? Soft, supple, oh-so-touchable skin that feels as good as it looks.

To pair these acids in skincare, start with salicylic acid and then add hyaluronic acid. As always, listen to your skin and adjust as needed.

How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin

Just starting to experiment with acids in skincare? Consider your:

• Individual skin concerns: Do you want to target wrinkles? Acne? Ramp up hydration? 

• Skin type: Oily skin loves salicylic acid's oil-control abilities, while drier skin types might prefer the gentle exfoliation of AHAs, like lactic acid (found in our White Serum).

• Lifestyle: How often you go out into the sun, your diet, habits — all of this can influence how your skin behaves and responds to certain products.

And if you want skincare tailored to your unique climate and environment? Start here.

References

[1] Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules : A Journal of Synthetic Chemistry and Natural Product Chemistry. 2018;23(4).

[2] Narda M, Trullas C, Brown A, Piquero‐Casals J, Granger C, Fabbrocini G. Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF‐alpha in human skin explants. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020;20(2):513-521.

[3] Șoimița Emiliana Măgerușan, Hancu G, Rusu A. A Comprehensive Bibliographic Review Concerning the Efficacy of Organic Acids for Chemical Peels Treating Acne Vulgaris. Molecules. 2023;28(20):7219-7219. 

[4] Sissons B. Salicylic acid for acne: Efficacy, how to use, and more. www.medicalnewstoday.com. Published March 30, 2021.

[5] Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology. 2012;4(3):253-258.

[6] Liu K, Nassim J. The hype on hyaluronic acid. Harvard Health Blog. Published January 23, 2020.